Q1 - What does a healthy J look like?
A - From GinnyR:
Shiny feathers, active, bright eyes, alert, chatty, and eating. Poops should be greenish solid, with waterish circle around it. No poop stuck on vent. No fuzzy stuff or patches in the mouth or on beak. Cere, normal & healthily, not rough, scaly or enlarged.
Q2 - How can I tell if my J is feeling sick?
A - From GinnyR:
Off feed, puffed up, listless, lethargic, not playing, diarrhea, abnormal appearance anywhere.
Q3 - How often should I bring my J to the vet?
A - From GinnyR:
Healthy birds at least yearly for a check up to include a CBC. Take new birds to the vet ASAP for a purchase physical.
A - From Rita:
Many birds die because of illness with sub clinical signs. An annual CBC can help determine if something is amiss that otherwise may go unnoticed. Sure it causes one to spend more money on a pet bird, but if people do this for cats and dogs, birds should warrant the same good care.
Q4 - What tests should my vet do for a normal visit?
A - From GinnyR:
Physical exam; weight, etc. Have a complete blood count (CBC) done, a blood chemistry profile (liver & kidney function), swabs of mouth and cloaca for bacteria, check for giardia and other internal parasites, check skin for health.
A - From Carol P.
For new bird, my vet does a gram stain (mouth and droppings), bacterial culture, chlamydia (psittacosis) screen, and complete blood count. A blood analysis (where they do kidney, liver, etc. function tests) is done on all birds large enough to give blood for that and the CBC during one visit -- on smaller birds it is done on a subsequent new bird exam.
Q5 - How do I find a good vet for my J?
A - From GinnyR:
Call a local vet to find an avian specialist in your area, or go to the library and look in the American Veterinary Medical Association Journal to find a Board Certified Avian Medicine Veterinarian. Ask you local pet shop. On the WWW go to the AVMA, Vet Medicine, or net vet to find out information. There is a list in the annual Issues of Bird Magazine.
Q6 - When should I start looking for an avian vet?
A - From GinnyR:
Before you bring your bird home.
Q7 - What are normal blood test results for healthy J's?
(insert example here.)
Q8 - Should I remove the leg band from my J?
A - From editor:
Another controversial issue:
People who prefer to leave the bands on do so to retain permanent identification of the bird. People who prefer to take them off do so because the bird can get the band caught on something and harm himself. These people also believe that if a bird was to be stolen or lost, the band would either be clipped by the thief or not aid in recovery of lost bird so there is no benefit. However, it is possible that a lost parrot might be recovered by an honest person who would choose to return the bird to the humane society if he/she saw a band on the bird's leg. The same person may, however, refrain from taking a bird to the humane society if no band were present, the belief being that there is no way to identify the owner of the bird. (This person may not be aware of microchipping, see below.)
Whether you choose to keep the band or remove it, keep in mind that open bands (bands with a break that were fitted onto a full-grown bird) are more likely to get caught in a toy or whatever than closed bands (bands that are solid all the way round and were fitted to the bird as a baby). Also, bear in mind that the removal a band from a bird must be done by a competent avian vet with the appropriate tools. Any damage done to the leg in the process of removing a band could (and has been) fatal.
If you want permanent ID, the best approach is to have your bird microchipped. This cannot be removed by anyone & is safe to the bird.
Q9 - What is a J's lifespan?
A - From Jean:
Educated guess would be 50 yrs. I know senegals that are in their 20s, I've heard it speculated they will live into the 30s. Greys are documented into the 70s, so would guess Js to be in the 50s, but I have never gotten any documentation on it.
A - From Rita:
I know that my friend Pam has a black-wing hen that has been with her for 25 years. Judging from life spans known of other similarly sized birds - I tell my customers that with proper nutrition and caution of household hazards (the two biggest reasons any bird's life span is not met) - they can expect a lifespan of 35-55 years for their pet Jardine's.
Q10 - Which avian diseases should I be aware of?
A - From editor:
* Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD)
* Polyoma virus
* Pacheco's virus
* Chlamydiosis (formerly known as psittacosis)
* Proventricular Dilitation Disease (PDD)
Check out http://netvet.wustl.edu/birds.htm#petbird for links to pages discussing these diseases.
A - From Jean:
Concerning PBFD (Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease)
Birds under 3 years of age are at risk if exposed to the virus. Many exposed birds will not become ill and the exposure will result in immunity to the disease. Birds beyond 3 years old if exposed, will not contract PBFD and become ill or carriers. A bird 12 years old that suddenly develops an active case of PBFD was exposed prior to his 3rd birthday, and has always had the virus.
There is a blood test for PBFD to see if a bird has PBFD. If it is positive in a young (under 3 years old) bird, the bird should be isolated and retested in 90 days. If again it tests positive with no feather abnormalities a third test should be done. If at that time it is positive the bird should be placed in a safe home with no other birds, or any exposure to other birds or it should be euthanised. A bird over three years old that tests positive, must always be tested again. If he was exposed en route, he will have the virus in the blood, but may not have the disease at all.
If you have a bird over 3, have the test run and if neg. you know he will never contract the disease, and he will never need the test again.
Q11 - What vaccines are appropriate for Jardine's?
A - From Rita:
We have recently begun a practice of vaccinating all of our babies for the polyoma virus prior to leaving our home. For a young bird, the polyoma vaccine should be considered a priority. There have been no fatal reactions reported as a direct result of the vaccine and I feel it is very safe. Once the two step vaccination is complete, ideally the baby should not leave the home for another 2-3 weeks for full effectiveness to provide optimum protection to the baby in a new environment. The polyoma virus vaccine requires an annual booster shot.
The Pacheco's vaccine, on the other hand, I avoid - due to non-favorable side effects having been reported.
A vaccination is also available for Psittacine Beak & Feather Disease (PBFD). Whether or not to get this vaccine will be a judgement call between you, the vet, and the breeder. For example, I do not raise cockatoos, we have done random tests on matter collected from the aviary, as well as a few birds, and the results have been negative. For us, PBFD is not a concern. However, if you have a cockatoo and your J will be exposed to it, or your J will be travelling or visiting places with cockatoos of which test results for PBFD are not known - having the bird vaccinated would be an extra precaution. This is not to say cockatoos are the only carriers of PBFD - all birds can get it. However, since it is more prevalent in 'toos, I worry about more there. The decision really needs to be based on the health of the flock your bird originated from, your own flock and your veterinarian's opinion.
If the source for your J continually has a steady stream of babies coming in from outside sources to hand-feed (common with pet stores and brokers), then a full realm of testing and vaccinations for polyoma and PBFD should be strongly considered. Of course, every new bird exam should include a test for chlamydia (formerly referred to as psittacosis).
A - From Martha:
My vet wants me to vaccinate my birds against Pacheco's now that they have reworked the vaccine since the problems with the original one. My vet has vaccinated her birds including one who had a bad reaction to the original vaccine and has had no problems with the Pacheco's vaccination currently on the market. I'm still looking at this before I go forward with it for my flock. I do understand, however, that the cases of this have risen in the past year so my vet believes it should be done.
A - From ScottL:
To my knowledge, no PBFD vaccine is available in the U.S. A live vaccine is available in Australia where cockatoo populations are at high risk. But the vaccine is considered to be relatively dangerous and has not been approved for use in the U.S.
A - From Martha:
When I decided to polyoma vaccinate my birds, it was after Branson Ritchie did some bloodwork on all my birds and found polyoma titers in almost all of them. I had not had any birds get ill or die because of polyoma, but clearly my birds had been exposed and the possibility that one might have shed or be shedding was too high to ignore. I vaccinated my birds. Then a month or so ago, I did the swabs around my house (air vents, nestboxes, cages, etc) to have them tested for polyoma virus -- all came back negative.
I just wanted to add that all my birds have been polyoma vaccinated without any problems at all.
From what I understand of polyoma, most birds will not get sick from exposure to it once they are adults, but some adults will get sick and die. Babies with their undeveloped immune systems are quite endangered by the virus. So, if you don't breed birds and your birds are all adults, then you are less likely to need the vaccination. On the other hand, you could have that adult bird that is susceptible to the virus and you could bring it home to your bird on your hands or clothes after being in contact with other birds.
The other pro for vaccinating all the birds, in my opinion, is that we could probably wipe this virus out if we all did that.
Q12 - I have the flu this week. Should I be worried about my bird buddy catching the virus from me?
A - From Rita:
Our flu and cold germs cannot be passed onto our avian friends, dogs, etc. There are only 3 zoonotic diseases that can be passed from bird to human or vice versa, the most common being chlamydia (or psittacosis - a good reason to have very bird tested for this upon purchase). Another is TB and I cannot recall the third.
A - From ScottL:
It should be noted that Avian Influenza and Human Influenza A are the same virus. According to RH&H, "Theoretically, humans may also be able to infect their companion birds."
A - from M. Wissman, courtesy of Jean:
Mammals are dead-end hosts. Chlamydiosis is considered a zoonotic disease, transmissible from animals to humans. Humans and pet dogs and cats cannot give chlamydiosis (correct name) to birds directly. We can act as vectors, carrying the organism on our bodies, hair, clothes, shoes, etc. and pass it to birds that way, however, this method of transmission is not very common. Psittacosis is the antiquated name for this disease (implying psittacine birds) and chlamydiosis is more accurate.
From: The Biology of Chlamydia psittaci, Helga Gerlach, Seminars in Avian and Exotic Pet Medicine
The genus, Chlamydia consists of four species, two of which (C. trachomatis and C. pneumoniae) are restricted to humans. Chlamydia pecorum has been proposed as a ruminant-specific strain. C. psittaci has a broad host spectrum among birds (most of the psittaciformes and at least 130 species in other orders), mammals including humans (practically all domesticated mammals, and many wild mammals), as well as some amphibians and arthropods....All owners of chlamydial birds should be educated on the zoonotic potential of the organism. The clinical symptoms in humans include spiking fever, night sweats, and pneumonia.
A Color Atlas of Avian Chlamydiosis:
The single most effective safety precaution is to prevent aerosolization of the contaminated, infectious material (dusts of dried feces, urates, and ocular, oral and nasal discharges (of birds.))
Q13 - Is it safe to take a wing-clipped Jardine's parrot outdoors?
A - From Rita:
The group of Poicephalus parrots are also called "long winged" parrots. Even with a full wing clip, some of these well-muscled birds can still manage to fly quite well. The Greater J's, especially, are very streamlined because of their slim build.
Despite my warnings, I have had customers take their J's outdoors, uncontained, but clipped. For one family the bird was startled one day and ended up flying over 300 yards and landed in a tree. They managed to follow the direction of his flight and did get the bird back after he spent a night in a tree (in which he could have been singled out and tormented by crows, become hawk or owl lunch, etc.). This bird was completely clipped.
Another J customer had his clipped red-belly out of doors sitting in a low limb of a tree while they were out enjoying summer weather. A Motorcycle drove by and the loud noise scared the bird and off he flew. Again, this bird was recovered.
Many group members have been using the bird harnesses now available with luck. This is the only manner in which I can condone taking birds outdoors uncontained. Even still, there is the danger of predatory wildlife attempting to snatch your bird. Anyone who takes their bird out needs to take the role of the "sentinel bird" at all times.
Q14 - What are the benefits/concerns associated with using full-spectrum lighting in my bird room?
A - From Alison:
Birds can make vitamin D in their bodies if they are exposed to natural sunlight (or, one presumes, a Vitalite) even if they don't get it in their food.
Also, few foods naturally contain significant amounts of vitamin D.
Editor's comment: Keep in mind that several pellets are fortified with Vitamin D. As Vitamin D overdose can result in death, it is not recommended to provide pellets or supplements with high percentages of Vitamin D to parrots that are exposed to large amounts of natural or artificial sunlight.
A - From Michele:
It is not correct to say UV is harmful. UVB is both good and bad. It is what causes the body to synthesize vitamin D. On the other hand, too much can cause eye problems and skin cancer. Too little is bad. Too much is bad.
UVA is the part of the spectrum that comes in between visible light & the UVB. I have also seen stuff referring to UVC which I guess comes next to UVB on the other side. Of the graphs I have seen for lighting, there doesn't tend to be a dip in the output in the UVA range -- its more contiguous. Something about the technology of manufacturing bulbs I assume... i.e. if you get visible and you get UVB, you are very likely to get the UVA too.
I think both UVA & UVB can cause sunburn and I think UVB is actually worse taken in the same dose. Most of the stuff I have run across tends to focus on the UVB aspect because too much / too little seems to cause problems.
I am not sure if there have been known cases of cataracts in birds.... even if a bird had cataracts, it would be hard to prove the cause. Even with well controlled scientific experiments it is difficult to prove cause and effect.
When buying bulbs, you have to get spectral frequency outputs & compare those as well. The manufacturer should be able to give you a graph of wavelength vs output. UVB wavelengths are in the 290-315 nm range. Unfortunately, many bulbs are sold as "full spectrum" when they are just full *visible" spectrum.
A - From Karen:
I just pulled out a collection of papers from an international herpetological (reptiles) symposium and there is a paper on full spectrum lights. I have chameleons, which need specific UV spectrums in order to produce vitamin D.
The different UV A, B, or C levels refer to differences in the wavelengths of light for each. UV A is 320-400 nm, UV B is 290-320, and UV C is 200-290 nm. UV C is typically blocked by the earth's atmosphere and some UV B is also blocked. Apparently, you get more of the shorter wavelengths near the equator then you get increasingly longer wavelengths as you move toward the poles. As the wavelength gets shorter, the danger of the UV light increases. Some UV B can cause problems to eyes and skin of humans. Apparently there is a germicidal lamp with UV C components which would actually harm animals.
With the full spectrum fluorescent bulbs I use for my chameleons, I need to check on how much of each wavelength is generated and how far away from the bulb it radiates. The full spectrum bulbs need to be positioned so that chameleons can be within 12" (some bulbs require positioning even closer to the animals but I try to get bulbs that are guaranteed to radiate farther). Also, full spectrum bulbs lose their ability to generate the shorter wavelengths with time. It is recommended that they be replaced every 6 months.
A - From Max:
My avian veterinarian recently explained to me that many people believe that they are purchasing "full-spectrum" lights when in actuality they are buying "color corrected" lights. It was an expensive mistake for me since the two are similarly priced.
© 1998, 1999 African Parrot Society
Last update: March 04, 2003