Q1 - What size cage is appropriate for my J?
A - From GinnyR:
The biggest cage you can afford!
A - From ScottP:
It seems like it is big, but trust me, the smallest size cage you want for a Lesser Jardine is 24"x24"x24". My Jardine Shaka's cage is 24x24x40 and he uses every inch! when he was younger (9-13 weeks) I had the grate moved halfway up the cage and secured so he could only use the bottom 20 inches. He was to clumsy to be climbing all the way to the top when he was that little. Now the grate is used underneath the cage on the stand as a shelf so he can forage on the bottom of the cage.
A - From Rita:
For a Greater Jardine's, something larger is better, but if they spend a lot of time out of the cage, 24x24x24 will be fine.
A - From Jean:
I breed tons of Jardines, the 24"X24" is great. Make sure the door is big.
Q2 - What size bar spacing is appropriate for my J?
A - From GinnyR:
Not greater than 1 inch, suitable for Lesser and Greater Jardine's.
Q3 - What cage manufacturers do people on this list recommend?
A - From GinnyR:
Neon, California.
A - From Sheila:
CA cages hold up for a long time-do not use bleach in the cleaning process, it will eventually pit the paint. I like the playtop cages, as long as the bird won't be too high (which can cause aggressiveness). CA cage has WONDERFUL playtops, with curved ladders.
A - From Larry:
We have a CA Cage. It is 36X24X52 (Length, width, height) and has 1" bar spacing with a curved top. It's a great cage! We love it! (can you tell?) We also have a smaller CA Cage with a play top, and I have to say that the birds have enough room in the big cage to play (if you give them enough perches) without need for a playtop. Besides, with the rollers on the thing, you'd have to be Shaquille O'Neill to not have the birds above your head level. Get the cage, put some swings and perches in there, and watch the birds play play play!
As to the powdercoat: the smaller CA Cage we got is at least 5 years old and the powdercoat is still fresh as the day it rolled off the assembly line. I can't give you any idea how much longer it will last, but we expect at least a few more years before ANY wear and tear at all. Mind you, the current occupant of the cage is a Goffins, and they have a beak strength that I have NEVER felt with a Jardine's. If Picot hasn't damaged it by now, it would probably take hand or power tools to damage it!
A - From Cindy:
I really liked the California cages, but eventually decided on a new model of the Kings Cage. It has a Neapolitan top, silver hammertone finish (looks more pewter/black than silver), 3/4 inch bar spacing, and a pull out grate (I may not use the grate). Many of the Kings cages have the curly cue designs which I don't like, but this model doesn't. What I liked best about it was the size. 31" wide, 24" deep and 47" high. I will not be using the legs it comes with because it will make the cage higher than me, so I'm having my cousin the cabinet maker make a 10 inch oak stand with a tip out door so I have some storage space for toys and cage cover etc. I paid $475, got it from a local dealer. For the size I wanted (wider than 24"), I got a good deal. A Calif. cage 24"X24" would have cost about the same if I remember right.
A - From Michele:
I ordered the Expandable Habitats cage in 3'x2'x5'H. This cage has a nice setup for the bottom. There is a roll of heavy duty paper that unrolls for the bottom. Then you pull the end from one side each night to remove the soiled paper. Makes cleaning much easier since the paper's always in place, just have to pull. Bad thing though is now I have to use the grate in the cage so it means cleaning the grate. I didn't use the grate before. But I think that's probably healthier anyway since he can't rummage around in the droppings or eat fallen food that a dropping has touched. So I have been just wiping any crud off the grate each night & then just taking the grate out for a disinfecting on the weekend. All in all, seems like less work.
I bought my cage in stainless & so far like the finish. No more worries about peeling paint or toxins. Will have to see how it holds up but I am expecting it to out last my buddy!
Construction is very good. Much better quality than my last cage. Disadvantage though is that although I bought a 3x2 so I could fit in thru the door to take outside to clean (rather than the 2.5x2.5), it weighs over 200 lbs so I don't think its going anywhere!
I also ordered the inside shelf that goes with this. It is about 6" wide & goes inside the cage from front to back. Its made just like a cage with metal bars spaced about 3/4" apart. Works really well as an extra different kind of perch. I think it was approx $25 for a 2' long one.
Cage also has removable feed doors & front door for cleaning. They pretty much make cage to order so you can get doors & things where you want them.
Q4 - What other cage features should I look for, i.e playtops, doors, finish type, horizontal bars, etc?
A - From GinnyR:
I made the mistake of not getting a cage with outside feeder/water doors. When I have to go away, and a sitter takes care of the pets, the birds get upset with a new person opening the door, or biting occurs. Outside feeder access allows the caregiver to take care of a bird, without either getting harmed.
A - Rita:
Swing out feeder doors and crock holders that lock or keep crock from being pulled out and dumped as many Js are quite entertained by this past time. (G)
Q5 - What size & types of perches are right for my J's feet?
A - From GinnyR:
A variety of sizes. Minimum at least 1 inch. At least one long, huge comfort perch (high in the cage) for roosting will help keep the nails and feet smooth.
A - From Rita:
I highly recommend a Pedicure Perch somewhere in the cage to help control those sharp toenails.
Q6 - What things should I avoid in a cage?
A - From MarilynN:
I recall that many of the older cages have finishes that are not safe, and the cages with the scroll work at the top is also something a bird can get his head caught in.
A - From Rita:
No merging wires that can catch toenails or unfinished wire ends that can impale beaks.
A - From editor:
A number of people have had problems with the brass finishes. They tarnish after use & they can't get them clean. General feeling seems to be to stay away from these finishes.
A - From Larry:
The ZINC plating worries me a lot! Zinc is VERY toxic to birds and should be avoided at all costs! Go ahead and check out the CAGTAG-L FAQ
Look in the TOXINS FAQ that you find there. There is plenty to read about how harmful this metal is to your bird.
A - From Rita:
We use galvanized wire flights in our aviaries, which also has some zinc in the welds. We completely and thoroughly wash down all new cages with vinegar/water solution to neutralize the zinc.
A - From Alice:
I believe galvanized metal DOES contain zinc also but I was under the impression that it is a very small or harmless amount and it can possibly be neutralized.
A - From K&C B:
Galvanized metal is coated with zinc to stop the normal steel corrosion. The difference is that the zinc coating would normally not chip or flake off of galvanized steel, whereas a zinc plating much like chrome or even brass plating can and does regularly chip, and flake. The bonding processes are very different. The zinc in galvanized product does in fact oxidize and form a whiteish powder. By using the vinegar / water rinse the oxidized zinc should be rinsed off. Typically the zinc oxide build up takes quite some time to appear.
Q7 - What other accessories are important?
A - From Rita & Jean:
An accessory that I feel is very beneficial is a water bottle - my Js tend to defecate or make soup in their water all the time. Check often because some birds like to push pellets up the tube and can cause it plug up. Furthermore, the water bottle should be cleaned and scrubbed with a bottle and nozzle brush every 48 hrs.
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Last update: March 04, 2003